Hokkaido

The first-ever standalone English-language guide to Japan's wild frontier island

Hokkaido, Japan's second-largest island and northernmost prefecture, remains largely unexplored by international visitors—home to under 5% of the country's population and a world away from Tokyo. Written by an outdoors-loving travel writer resident in Japan, this comprehensive guide delves far deeper into this frontier land than country-wide guidebooks can possibly reach. You'll discover detailed coverage of Hokkaido's unique history, indigenous Ainu culture, rare wildlife, local specialities, and the practicalities of exploring this remarkable destination across all seasons.

From vast mountain ranges and sweeping forests to fertile plains and enormous wetlands, Hokkaido's landscapes feel exotic even to the Japanese themselves. With Ainu place names and a Siberia-influenced climate, the island has a distinctly wild aura unlike anywhere else in Japan. Summer brings ideal conditions for hiking, cycling and camping—including climbs of Daisetsuzan National Park's highest peak and colourful flower fields around Furano and Biei. Winter transforms the island into a snow-covered wonderland, perfect for snow festivals, walking on sea ice, spotting sea eagles in Shiretoko National Park, or enjoying world-class powder snow at resorts like Niseko.

Add hot springs and traditional ryokan inns, active volcanoes, speciality seafood, excellent transport links and renowned Japanese hospitality, and Hokkaido emerges as a thrilling and varied off-the-beaten-path destination. This essential companion guide unlocks everything you need to explore it.